Valve cover gasket was fairly straightforward.
I did have a couple of issues not mentioned in the FSM.
There were 15 bolts in my valve cover, the 04 FSM lists 14 - at least in the torque order image.
There were two 18mm nuts that prevented the cover from lifting off easily, one at the front of the cover holding down the AC lines bracket and one at the rear that secures a ground mount. I had to remove these in order to clear the cover.
The last and most frustrating part was removing the PCV elbows. I found a similar question here suggesting you just cut them up and remove them piece by piece. It took a while but this method worked.
I took my time and separated all eight clips around the top cover with a short stubby flat head screw driver and lots of patience. Then remove the 11mm nut on the passenger side valve cover bolt. Then its just finagling the bridge under the wires and out. The whole thing took me 20-25 minutes being careful not to break anything. Taking it out was harder than putting it back in.